L’Observateur : Shakes the Clown Edition

England is a lot like America. Fatty food. Cheap beer. Fat people. Dudes without shirts on. Et cetera. In a cultural context, it is astonishing how different London is than Paris given their geographical proximity, and as such it is no surprise the French distaste for the English and vice versa.

The Tate Modern in London might be the nicest modern art museum in the world. They currently have a room full of Russian propaganda posters and exhibits by Jeff Koons and Ed Ruscha.

Black cabs are expensive, but five people can ride at one time and I can occasionally out-run one.

For my money, the London Underground takes a backseat to the Paris Metro. They make it much harder to get value for your money and, like New York City, you can find yourself a great distance from the nearest stop even when you are in the heart of the city.

We found a pre-Civil War British map of Indian Territory, Texas, and Northeastern Mexico at a flea market along the Thames. Austin is listed as “Austin City,” there are no towns in Oklahoma, there is a town in East Texas called “Tenoxtitlan,” and Real de Catorce, Mexico is in the wrong place.

Stratford-on-Avon may possibly be a freaky tourist trap, depending on the plausibility of William Shakespeare having not had his plays ghostwritten, and/or whether or not he was in fact born in said hamlet. What we do know with some certainty, though the historical records may or may not reflect this, is that he was once caught poaching and his father dealt in sheepskins.

La Photo du Jour 621

Wild Style
London, England
31_5_2009

La Photo du Jour 618

Roland Garros
Paris, France
28_5_2009

French Open Highlights

Andy Rod Dick


Brooklyn Decker

A Ukrainian

Richard Williams picks another winner.

1970s-transplant chair ump calls it out.

Ball boys need attention, too.

A pivo-swilling Czech.

Another low-ranked women’s tennis player.

L’Observateur : Surreal Deal Edition

The Dalí Museum in Montmartre is not so great, but they have a Photomaton in which you can take photos of yourself in the guise of the master for a mere two euros.

In France, the TV show CSI is called Les Experts.

Protesters in front of the elementary school across the street want to “libéré Messieur Wang!” or at least that’s what they chanted about a thousand times in a row through two bullhorns the other day.

Now, I’m wondering if Mssr. Wang might be the little Cambodian guy who ran the laundry which mysteriously closed last week. One hypothesis states that he was harboring illegal children who attended the elementary school. Like, for instance, his grandson, whom we watched him beat one day when we picked up the laundry.

Lately, I’ve been having ideas for hateful Anglophile-in-France T-shirts. One would say “French Much?” Another one might say, “We Saved Your Ass, Now Kiss Mine!” In other lame T-shirt news, someone swiped my “Swine Flew” idea.

The Bois de Vincennes is transcendently beautiful these days.

La Photo du Jour 616

Catacombes
Paris, France
26_5_2009
The Miroiterie, in the Menilmontant area, is a colourful housing complex which is squatted legally by artists. The Miroiterie features an unusual shop: at ‘Magasin Gratuit’ everything is free. Customers bring clothes, books or cds and exchange it for other stuff on offer. The magasin is jammed with trash. Sometimes it is hard to find anything that's worthwhile taking home. Next door is the gallery of Miroiterie, exhibiting mainly street-art. Prices for the pictures are to be negotiated with the artists themselves and are generally very affordable. The artists can be watched at work in the backyard. The opening times for the gallery and the ‘Magasin Gratuit’ vary according to the mood of the artist.


Multi-cultural quarter Belleville mixes the remnants of the French chanson culture and the electronic underground. From Thursday to Saturday, sing-along chanson nights are held at ‘le vieux belleville’. It offers good-priced Parisian cuisine and artists like Raton who entertains the eclectic audience with his mechanical accordion. A short walk away is the ‘l’ile enchantee’, where every Thursday they hold the ‘le retour du jeudi’ night. On the ground floor of l’ile de chantee is a spacious lounge bar which is quiet enough to have a relaxed chat with friends. Upstairs top Parisian DJs like feadz spin electro beats.

Once darkness has fallen on Paris, underworld freaks lead illegal tours down 20-metre ladders into the city’s catacombs. These deep tunnels were created when stones were dug up and used to construct some of the French capital’s most splendid buildings. The tour lasts five hours, and participants need headlamps, water and good walking shoes. The descent is quite dangerous, and visitors can easily injure themselves on the low stone walls. Those who go down without a guide are sure to get lost in the 300-kilometre maze of tunnels. Down in the 200-year-old catacombs the work of unknown underground artists is visible. A refreshment break takes place in a former Second World War bunker which sometimes also plays host to Parisian raves. If walkers are caught coming out of the catacombs, they can be fined by police. Catacombs tours can be booked over the internet – at participant’' own risk.

Presenter Toby Amies meets Gaspard Delanoe, the charismatic leader of one of Paris’ most audacious artistic squats and witnesses exactly what contemporary struggling artists can achieve when they all work together to breathe life into a disused Paris bank. Inspired by Gaspard’s surreal bicycle, Toby decides to make a junk-art bike of his own. At Europe’s largest flea market Toby meets casting agent Speedy Yellow, who sources models for fashion shoots from ordinary people she meets on the street. Toby gets an insight into Paris trash-chic and a forgotten dance culture when Speedy decides Toby fits the bill for an upcoming fashion shoot in a traditional Parisian guingette ballroom. Society dandy Emmanuel de Brantes dissects Parisian social mores and teaches Toby the meaning of Paris chic and the serious art of fine dining, before a little gentleman's grooming at the city’s finest barber and an invitation to a high society soiree at the Paris Film Festival. Toby visits the Friday night Pari Roller, where thousands of skaters take over the city's streets, and has a memorable Buggy Rollin encounter with a strange man who negotiates the pavements of Paris like a human luge. Sound sculpture Jacques Remus shows Toby there's more to Parisian music than meets the eye when he makes music from washing machines and industrial cast-offs. Trendspotter Joelle Dirringer gives Toby a backstage look at the Paris perfume industry when she takes him to the Givaudan perfume laboratory to meet the 'noses' who develop the world's favourite toilet cleaners and exquisite new fragrances. Toby learns a new French art involving ice cubes, irons and chainsaws from Joelle's boyfriend Michele Amann, the world ice-carving champion.

La Photo du Jour 600

Cabines
Paris, France
10_5_2009