L’Observateur : Desierto Edition



Words to the wise: Don’t go on an overnight camping trip to the desert the morning after dehydrating yourself at the bar... When riding in the back of a pickup truck careening down a bumpy cobblestone road not having had your morning coffee, hang on tight...

If the truck breaks down in a one-vulka Mexican desert town, they’ll fix it fast and cheap – but be thankful the truck didn’t break down at the next stop, where the next mechanic is a six-hour trek back through the Chuihuahuan desert.


Being in the desert seems a bit like being lost at sea. Every direction looks more or less the same: Joshua trees, brush, and dirt. If you happen to lose your bearings, buena suerte. If you make a series of specious decisions, your life might be on the line.

You can walk up to a random rancho in the desert and buy goat cheese and (no joke) the best-tasting, most wholesome tortillas you’ve ever laid mouth on. You can also stop and eat some of the vegetation.

Anglophiles use the word “jungle” in a secondary way to mean “there’s a lot going on” like “it’s a jungle out there,” but alternately use the word “desert” to mean “there’s nothing,” like “it’s deserted.” But in reality, the desert is a jungle. It’s buzzing with insects, birds, lizards, snakes, goats, horses, cattle, and humans. All of whom come to the tanque at one time or another to partake of the myriad uses of water.


As Señor High Pants says, “there is only one reason to go to the desert.” If you know what that reason is, good for you. If you don’t, keep guessing.

Shooting a bow and arrow is good clean fun.

On a moonless night in the desert, the Milky Way is a stunning sight.

Sleeping bags can get hot inside even when it’s cold outside, and when the morning sun rises, the desert gets hot in a hurry.

On the way home, we stopped at El Cocuy, an organic farm in the desert owned by a longtime Catorceño named Balz Schurmann. His dog outran us to the gate.

The Huichol Indians of Nayarit have been vision questing to and around a peak in the Sierra Catorce called El Quemado for thousands of years. Theirs is an animistic tradition. Deer are sacred. This photograph was taken in the Tunel Ogarrio on the return trip from the desert. And I always thought my spirit animal was the horse. Go figure.

Ni Modo

La Photo du Jour 317

Diff’rent Strokes, Diff’rent Folks

Estación Catorce, Mexico
31 _7_2008

Quiquiriquí! It’s a Circle Jerk!

Earlier in the week, I saw posters around town advertising a pelea de gallos at 4pm Sunday in the Palenque. After careful consideration of my life, I put my better judgment aside and attended. Thirty pesos admission. Twenty pesos for a michelada. Fifteen pesos for an extra lata of Tecate. Two hours of sitting around watching people drink beer, shoot the shit, whoop it up, and stare into space – the action began más tarde, around 6:15...

Step 1: After spending about half an hour tying a metal-fish-hook/talon-looking thing to the rooster’s claw, it’s time to piss him off by bringing a third cock into the ring. Sniff, peck, crow, neck feathers splayed.

Step 2: Hold your excited cock with both hands, and let him kiss your opponent’s cock.

Step 3: Release.

Step 4: Sit idly watching the extremely boring proceedings. After about 30 seconds, one of the cocks starts bleeding profusely, and a winner is declared. Afterward, there is a “lucky number” drawing to keep everyone entertained during the (at least) 30-minute intermission before the next 30-second match.

Step 5: Make sure the children are permanently scarred.


La Photo du Jour 307

Any Weather Is Pepsi Weather
Real de Catorce, Mexico
21 _7_2008

A More Exciting Peteca Video

L’Observateur : Peteca Tech Edition

First of all, it’s “peteca” not “patequé” (idiota). No matter, after two weeks of solid rain, the games are back on. Yesterday, we upgraded the court lines from chalk to twine and had a go. I went down 7-4 to Francesco in a sweaty Sunday afternoon match under a blazing hot sun. After going up 2-0, I lost my concentration and fatigue set in. He’ll never beat me again, I swear by it. The fact that he was playing in only a pair of whitey tighties didn’t bode well from the outset... my memory, singed. ||||| The day before, I built my first rock wall – after clearing a mess of brush and deep-rooted trees. I built it up and tore it down at least five times. It’s like doing a puzzle, except there’s no guarantee from the outset that the pieces will fit together – and to get more pieces that might, you have carry them at least twenty back-wrenching feet to find out. Five-and-a-half hours in the sun wearing a wool jumpsuit, my desk job hands bruised and cut (even through work gloves), I finished. Now it’s done, the plants are planted, and it looks nice. ||||| Jade grows like crazy here in spite of the dry climate. I planted three small sprigs five years ago and now the place is crawling with the stuff. The garden is only this year equipped with herbs: basil, rosemary, and mint. ||||| The alamo (poplar) trees are growing at an incredible rate and can now be touched from the roof. The pirul tree is another fast-grower and is called a “Brazil pepper tree” in English. The Incas used the berries to make drinks and the branches can be used in a ceremonial Temazcal steam bath. I like to do the “touch and smell” with it, like you would with rosemary. ||||| There is talk of building a sweat lodge to the east in Potrero and/or going camping in the desert to the west. ||||| My “American” neighbor up the hill is putting a wireless antenna on top of his house so everyone in the Swiss barrio can pick up the signal. At present, I can pick it up only on my patio, which is tons better than having to schlep into town to check my email. ||||| My closest Swiss neighbor, Max Roth, is here for the first time in four years. He’s having a photo show at the gallery – which is run by my German neighbors Corrina and Charlie High Belt – opening on Thursday, and titled “Desierto en Hielo.” It’s digital photos of the Swiss Alps printed on some kind of special paper, effected, then set between panes of bulletproof glass. ||||| This week, I agreed in principle to buy a painting from Cora. I’m not sure how I’m going to pay for it, but I should get a discount, since she used cut up pieces of old Austin Chronicles (using my last redesign there) in the work. I recognized that distressed Officina Serif from a mile away – like an old girlfriend at a house party. ||||| Favorite new Spanish expression/word of the week: ni modo. Whatever. No mode. ||||| Sorry about the “all one paragraph” thing. Not sure what’s up with Blogger.

La Photo du Jour 301


Puerto Angel


Real de Catorce, Mexico

15_7_2008

L’Observateur : Birdy Nam Nam Edition

The birds have left the nest. Just look at that steely gaze on Birdy Nam Nam (pictured). Larry (Bird) and (Darryl) “Choo” (Kennedy) are barely around these days, and frankly, we’ve moved on – from Brown-Crested (Wied’s) Flycatchers – to redder and yellower pastures... like the Rose-Throated Tanager and the Black-Headed Siskin...
There are also largish hawks and a bevy of hummingbirds, but I can’t figure out what they are from the book as I do not own the Peterson Field Guide to Hummingbirds.

La Photo du Jour 297


Poderoso


Real de Catorce, Mexico

10_7_2008